Method and apparatus for making fur coats



Aug. 3, 1954 R. A. THOMAS 2,685,391

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FUR COATS Filed Jan. 5, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I INVENTOR. Rwhford A. Thomas ATTORNEY Aug. 3, 1954 R. A, THOMAS 2,685,391

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FUR COATS Filed Jan. 5, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 .i 45 6 fly n Y INVENTOR. Rwhford fl. Thqmas ATTORNEY Patented Aug. 3, 1954 UNITED STATES OFFICE Blichfcrd A. Thomas, Flint, Mich.

Application January 5, 1952, Serial No. 265,081

10 Claims. 1

This-invention relates in general to the inaking of fur coats, and in particular, to a novel and improved method of and an apparatus for reconstructing fur coats which eliminate considerable time-consuming operations and produce better constructed,- perfectly ii ted, and correctly styled coats that hang properly. The present invention is in the nature of an improvement of my- Patent Number 2,313,374, granted March 9, 1943, Apparatus for Reconstructing Fur Coats.

In the above-patented apparatus, there is disclosed an open front form over which a wetted fur coat, minus the lining, collar, and sleeves and with the skin side of the fur next to the form, is held by a pair of movable stretcher boards during drying for shrinking the skins to the shape of the form, said stretcher boards being located in the open front of the form. Attachable to the form are kyle strips and presser plates'over which and under which, respectively, the skirt portion of the coat is adapted to be supported during drying for providing flares in the coat. Such a method and apparatus eliminate the use of patterns for each part of a coat when restyling a coat, and consequently do not require the ripping of the coat into pattern parts and the tacking and shrinking of each pattern part separately in order for them to lie fiat while being out according to a pattern. Dispensing with the use of patterns also obviates taping all edges of shrunken pattern parts of the coat prior to the sewing of the pattern parts together as well as the destructive process of pounding seams which attach the shrunken pattern parts together to make the different pattern parts blend together smoothly.

The present invention provides certain ii provements in the method of association of fur coats relative to the form, there being provision for placing the coat on the form wrong side out or, in other words, with the fur side next to the form and the skin side and seams exposed, both during marking of pieces of the fur which are to be removed from the coat and other mark ings at places where pieces are to be added in accordance with alterations to be made to the coat to fit the form, and during the shrinking of the skins of the fur to the shape of the form.

Approximately ninety per cent of. all types of furs from which coats are-made are of a charactor that lend themselves for placement on forms with the work side-0f the furs out where it'is accessible for workthereon. The other ten per cent of coats are of a silky, tightly: curled type of fur, such as Persian lamb. These can be successfully remodeled on the apparatus, but due to the fact that pressure on and lack of air to the fur when shrunk kills the silky lustre, this type'of fur is placed on the form with the fur side out while the shrinking operation is performed.

It is therefore the main object of the present invention to provide a fur coat form having a sectional portion thereof removable and substitutable with other sectional portions of different constructions in accordance with the manner or" association of the fur relative to the form for directing fullness, such as flares, in proper directions and for varying the number as well as design and location of flares to be blocked in the coat.

Another object of the invention is to provide a coat form'upon' and to theshape of which a wetted' fur coat is adapted to be shrunk, said form having recesses therein for receiving and supporting inwardly directed kyles under which the fur of the coat is supported during drying for blocking fullness in the coat.

A further object of the invention is to provide a fur coat form having expandable sectional sleeve units that are removable from the body portion of the form for permitting placing of a fur coat with the sleeves thereon over the form prior to inserting the sectional sleeve units in place and thereby permitting the marking for removal and/ or addition of pieces of fur and also permitting, at a single wetting period, the shrinking of the skins of the fur over both the body and the sleeves as well as the material at the seams which attach the sleeves to the body.

It is also an object of the invention to provide an apparatus of the above-indicated character which is substantial in construction, economical to manufacture, and thoroughly efiicient and practical in use.

These, together with various auxiliary features and objects ofthe invention which will later become apparent as the following description proceeds, are attained by the present invention, a preferred embodiment of which has been illustrated, by way of example only, in the ac'conrpanying drawings, wherein:

Figure 1 is a rear elevation of the improved apparatus showing a fur coat thereon;

Figure 2 is a side elevation of the same;

Figure 3 is a horizontal section taken on line 3-3 of Figure 1';

Figure 4i is a fragmentary transverse section on line 4-4 of Figure 2-;

gassed Figure 5 is a vertical section taken substantially on lines 5-5 of Figures 1 and 3;

Figure 6 is a perspective view of a removable section of the back of the body portion of the form used when remodeling coats to have two flares down the backs thereof and is shown as being used in Figures 1 and 3;

Figure '7 is a perspective view of one of the kyles used with the back section shown in Figure 6;

Figure 8 is a side elevation of the upper portion of the apparatus with the sleeve form portion removed and with the clamping arm swung to inoperative position and broken away;

Figure 9 is a perspective view similar to Figure 5 showing the back section which is used when remodeling a coat having a plain back; and

Figure 10 is also a similar perspective View showing the back section used when remodeling coats to have four flares down the backs thereof.

Referring now more specifically to the accompanying drawings wherein like numerals designate similar parts throughout the various views, the numeral indicates a hollow open front body portion of. a coat form constructed of wood, papier-mach, or similar-material, waterproofed, of substantial construction, and comprising a bottom wall it and a solid reduced neck portion ii. Within the hollow form l5 substantially centrally thereof and extending through the bottom wall it and into a floor stand 18 supporting the form i5 is the lower end of a vertical rod l9 that extends the entire height of the form with the upper end projecting through the solid neck portion ii. The rod !9 is also supported in the center of the hollow form 45 and is held against turning and end movement relative thereto by two sets of arm brackets 20 that engage around the rod 59 and are secured to a pair of vertical longitudinally extending reinforcing strips 2! along opposite sides of a relatively large back opening 22, as shown in Figures 3 and 5.

As disclosed in my patent referred to above, there is provided at the open front, designated by the numeral 23, a pair of adjustable stretcher boards 21% and that extend from the bottom wall 15 to the bust area of the form. The boards 24 and 25 are carried by a plurality of arms 25 pivotally supported on the rod 19 and are moved toward and away from one another by shafts 2'! threadedly connected to the arms 26 of both boards and rotated by worm gearing 28 from a vertically extending shaft 29 with a crank handle 39 on an end projecting below the bottom wall 46. The shafts 27 have their opposite ends threaded in opposite directions for feeding the stretcher boards to and away from overlapping positions according to the direction of rotation of said shafts. It is to the inner sides of the stretcher boards adjacent their forward longitudinal edge portions that the front margins of the coat are tacked for stretching the coat tightly upon the form.

The opening 22 in the back of the body portion of the form I5 is substantially rectangular in shape, is of a size to include practically the entire back, and is adapted to receive any one of a number of differently constructed back sections according to the style to which the coat is to be remodeled on the form. For purpose of illustration, there is shown in the opening 22 and attached in place on the form l5, as in Figures 1, 2, 3, 5, and 8, a back section 3i used in reconstructing a coat which will have two flares starting from below the shoulders and extending downwardly the full length of the back of the coat, this back section 3! being shown separately in Figure 6. The back section 3! is joined flush with the outer surface curvature of the form [5 and rests at its vertical longitudinal side edges against portions of the reinforcing strips 21 that project slightly into the opening 22, as shown best in Figure 3. Along and extending above the'top edge of the back section 3i and set inwardly the thickness Of the wall of the form 15 is a retaining flange 32 that engages behind the wall of the form at the top edge of the opening 22 for holdin the upper portion of the back section against outward movement. On the lower end of the back section 31 and adapted to project into the form 15 and to rest on top of the bottom wall It of the form is substantially right-angled plate 33, which is provided with a hole 34 therein into which a manually operated plunger 35 carried by the bottom plate [6 engages for holding the lower portion of the back section against outward movement.

In the contoured wall of the back section 3! and extending the major portion of its height is a pair of spaced, isosceles triangular-shaped recesses 36 bounded by extremely long sides 31 that round into the outer surface of the back section and by short and flat base sides 38 arranged on the same horizontal plane as the upper surface of the plate 33. Received in each of the recesses 36 and projecting into the hollow body form i5 is a kyle or flare forming member 39 substantially V-shaped in cross section and diminishing in size as it extends upwardly which comprises a pair of flat tapering walls Gil that are gradually rounded together along their connecting side portions, as at 4|. The lower larger ends of the walls 38 are joined by across wall 52 adapted to be seated on the upper side of the plate 33 of the sectional back, there being a peg d3 projecting downwardly from the cross wall Ill for reception into either one of a pair of spaced holes 1d provided in the plate 33, said pair of holes providing for adjustment of the depth of protrusion of the flare forming member into the sectional back. While the flare forming members 39 are shown and described as being of shell-like construction with an open back, it is to be understood that such members may be made solid and triangular shape in horizontal cross section.

On the end of the rod l9 above the neckportion I! of the body form !5 is supported a rear- Wardly directed bar to which is pivotally connected, as at 45, one end of a clamping arm 41 that has secured on its free end a transversally arranged curved plate 48 that engages the upper portion of both flare forming members 39 for holding said members in proper positions in the recesses 36. A pair of coil springs 49 are connected to the bar 45 and the arm 11 for applying pressure to the arm to hold the flare forming member in place as shown in Figures 1, 2, and 5, and for supporting the arm in an out-of-the-way position when the clamping structure is not in use, as shown in Figure 8.

In Figures 9 and 10 are illustrated back sections 3 l and 31 to be substituted for the back section 3| when reconstructing fur coats to styles without ripple backs and with back having four flares, respectively, there being four kyles or flare forming members of the same construction as that previously described and of proper size and shape for use in the recesses 38* of the back section 3| shown in Figure 10.

assessor 5. To opposite sides of the body form at the shoulderarea thereof are attached, by screws 5t, flat; oval-shaped plates SI each provided with two pairs of bayonet slots 52' and 5=3theslots ofeach pair being-in alignment one above anothenbeing of different lengths, and having the enlarged slot portions 54 thereof at opposite ends; It'is to these plates and through the bayonet slots thereof that sectional sleeve forms 55 are detachably connected. Each sectional sleeve form 55 is composed of three longitudinally extending flat-board sections 56, 51, and 58 arranged edge to edge; The intermediate section 51 is-tongue-and-grooved to the outer sections 58 and 58, as at as, for endwi-se sliding movement thereof relative to said outer section, there being a pivoted retention member '69 on the lower end'of the section 5'8 -adapted to be swung under the intermediate section 5?- forholding the same against downward sliding movement.

Near the upper end and from the underside of tion of the heads of the lower screws into the lower ends of the lower slot and then the movement of the sleeve sections upwardlyand the insertion of the heads of the upper screws in the upper ends of the shorter upper slots. The shorter upper slots will prevent the IOWGI'iIIg-Of'thfi sleeve sectionsto positions that would permitthe heads of the lower screws to become disengaged from the lower slots. The outer sleevesections 56'and 53 may be of different widths and outer marginal contours according to the size and style of sleeves to be reconstructed on the sleeve forms; and by having intermediate slidably removable section 51 which expands the outer sections 56' and 53 to proper sleeve forming positions; it ispossible to stretch sleeves on the form with cuff areas of smaller widths than otherportions of the sleeves.

In reconstructing a fur coat with the improved apparatus after taking out the lining and padding and removing the collar, pocketing, buttons, loops,

etc, the coat is placed on the body form 1-5 wrong side out with both sectional sleeve" forms 55 removed and theback section-3i, 31 or 3i in place according to the style of backthe coatis to have when remodeled- Should either of the back sections 3! or 3 I be used, and there appears to be adequate material in the coat, the flare forming members 39 areinserted in the recesses 36 or 36 forcing fullness inthe coat to extend thereunder and into the hollow interior of the body form i5 while conforming to the shape of said members. However, should there not-appear to be sufficient material in the coat to fit around the body form and provide for any flares that are to be formed therein, the locations" and sizes of inserts are marked on the skin side'of the fur; the coat is removed from the form; and the necessary pieces of fur are added before returning the coat to the form. The coat is then drawn as smoothly as is possible over the body form: and is temporarily tacked at the front to hold the coat in position on the body form.

With the fur side next to the body form and the skin side and seams exposed, markings of small pieces of the fur which are to be removed from the coat and other markings at places where small 6, piecesare to be added arernade on the skinside in accordance with slight alterations to be made to the body of thecoat' tent tothe contour of the bodyform.

The sectional sleeve: forms '55- arethen con nected to the shoulder plates-51 by first inserting the outer sections 56 and BS- 'upwardly'in the sleeves and engagingthe heads of'the screws 6| in-the slots 52 and 53; i Afterxthe outer sleeve sections are securely connected; theintermediate sleeve sections 51 are slid upwardly in the sleeves with the tongues thereon engaging into the grooves of the outer sections 55 andw arid are held in place by-the pivoted retention member 59; The sleeves of-the coat are then marked according to the'removalof pieces of fur 'to fit the sleeves of the coat to the sectional sleeve forms 55. Should the sleeves of the coat not have suffic'ient material therein to-permit the insertion of the intermediatesections 51, additions must be made to: the sleeves beforefitting the'mto the shape of the sectional sleeve formsw After all markings have been'completed, the coat is removed from. the apparatus and'isaltered according to the markings thereon, it being unnecessary to tape-the edges before sewing the seams-or to pound the -seams-inorder to make them-lay flat and smooth, as'thecoat has not as yet been wettedand shrunk: The skin side of the coat is wetted before returningit to the form with theskinside'out andbefore arranging the flare forming members 39" and sectional sleeve forms 55 hip-lace. With the stretcher boards 24 and 2'5 in open position, the front marginal edges of the coat are tacked to the stretcher boards for drawing the coat tight about'the form upon movement of said stretcher boards to proper overlapped position. By having theskin side of the coat exposed, additionalrnoisture may be conveniently applied and'all seams may" beoarefully inspected' during the stretching ofthe fur over the forms. Uponcompl'etedrying'of the coat; the bottom'is squared-off and-fiat taped andthe coat is ready for "the finisher.

This method andapparatus eliminate rip ing up the coat and making each 'part'lie flat, save fifty per cent of cuttcrs time, eliminate need of pattern, save seventy-five 'per' cent of operators time, save fifty'per cent ofna-ilingtime, eliminate flat'tapin-g except-atbottomof coat, on obviate pounding of seams;

In view of the foregoing descrip-tion'taken in conjunction with the accompanyingdrawings, it is believed that a clear understanding of the construction; manner of use, and advantage of the improved methodand apparatusforreconstructing fur coats-will be quite apparent'to those experienced along this line. A-moredetailed description is accordingly deemed unnecessary";

It isto be-understood; however, that even thoughthere is herein shown and described a preferredembodiment of the invention, ,various changes maybe made without departing from the spirit and full 'intendment of the invention.

What is claimed is: l V

I. An apparatus for remodeling fur coats comprising a hollow body form havingthe outer surface of the wall thereof contoured to a size and shape. corresponding to that of-anordinary clothed humanbody for placement of thebody portion lof acoatthereonand-for shaping the coat to conform to the outer surface contour thereof, said body form having slots through the wall thereof extending from below the shoulder area down the back of said form and increasing in width as they extend downward, and flare forming members substantially V -shaped in cross section that diminsh in size as they extend upwardly, said flare forming members being received in said slots and protruding into said hollow form and adapted to have material of the coat extended thereunder.

2. An apparatus for remodeling fur coats, constructed in accordance with claim 1, in combination with adjustable supporting means for the flare forming members that determine the depth of protrusion of the flare forming members into the hollow body form.

3. An a paratus for remodeling fur coats comprising a hollow body form having an opening therein of a size including substantially the entire back portion thereof, and a back section received in said opening and detachably connected to said body form for providing a back wall across said opening, said hollow body form and detachable back section having gradually contoured outer surfaces that align flush with one another for shaping a coat to the outer surface contours of the body form and the back section.

4. An apparatus for remodeling fur coats constructed in accordance with claim 3 in which said detachable back section has vertically arranged elongated slots through the wall thereof that decrease in width as they extend upwardly, and flare forming members received and detachably supported in said recesses and adapted to have material of the coat extended thereunder.

5. An apparatus for remodeling fur coats constructed in accordance with claim 3 in which said detachable back section has elongated slots through the wall thereof that are tapered in width as they extend from end to end, flare forming members extending through said slots and protruding into said hollow body form adapted to have material of the coat extended thereunder, and means for supporting said flare forming members in positions for adjusting the depth of protrusion thereof into the hollow body form.

6. A method of reconstructing fur coats to different sizes and styles without the use of patterns and having the joining edges of diiferent skins and sections of coats blending together smoothly without taping of edges before sewing together and without pounding of seams of sewed edges, which consists of placing an unlined coat on a correctly styled and sized contoured form with the fur side next to the form and the skin side exposed, marking on the exposed skin side of the coat areas where pieces of skins are to be removed or inserted for closely approximating a fit'of the coat to the form, removing the coat from the form, altering the coat acording to the markings, wetting the skin side of the coat, replacing the coat on the form with the skin side exposed, stretching the coat tightly over the form, adding moisture to exposed skin areas where additional stretching and shrinking are desired, and allowing the coat to remain stretched on the form during drying and setting of the stretched and the shrunken skins and their stretched seams.

7. A method of reconstructing fur coats to different sizes and styles having flares or ripples without the use of patterns and having the joining edges of diiferent skins and sections of coats blending together smoothly without taping of edges before sewing together and without pounding of seams of sewed edges, which consists of placing an unlined coat on a correctly styled and sized contoured form with the fur side next to the form and with the skin side in a wet condition and exposed, forcing and retaining material of said coat into recesses in said form with kyles for producing flares, stretching the coat tightly over the form and under the kyles, adding moisture to exposed skin areas where additional stretching and shrinking are desired, and allowing the coat to remain stretched over the form and under the kyles during drying and setting of the stretched and the shrunken skins and their stitched seams.

3. An apparatus for remodeling fur coats comprising a form on which coats are fitted, stretched, and shrunk to size and shape, said form having the outermost surfaces thereof generally contoured to a size and shape corresponding to that of an ordinary clothed human body,

said form also having recesses extending inwardly therein from said outermost contoured surfaces, and flare-shaping members received and supported in said recesses with material of the coat extending thereunder while other material of the coat is fitted over and shaped by said outermost contoured surfaces.

9. An apparatus for remodeling fur coats comprising a form on which coats are fitted, stretched, and shrunk to size and shape, said form having the outermost surfaces thereof generally contoured to a size and shape corresponding to that of an ordinary clothed human body, said form also having recesses extending inwardly and gradually rounding from the outermost contoured surfaces thereof, and tapered flareshaping members received and supported in said recesses with material of the coat extending thereunder while other material of the coat is fitted over and shaped by said rounded surfaces of said recesses and said outermost contoured surfaces.

10. An apparatus for remodeling fur coats comprising a form on which coats are fitted, stretched, and shrunk to size and shape, said form having the outermost surfaces thereof generally contoured to a size and shape corresponding to that of an ordinary clothed human body, said form also having recesses extending inwardly and gradually rounding from the outermost contoured surfaces thereof, and flare-shaping members substantially V-shaped in cross section and gradually rounded together along the connecting side portions, said flare-shaping members being received and supported in said recesses with their rounded connecting portions projecting into said form and adapted to have material of the coat extended thereunder while other material of the coat is fitted over and shaped by said rounded surfaces of said recesses and said outermost contoured surfaces.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 313,268 Weinberg et a1. Mar. 3, 1885 2,022,594 Gilbert Nov. 26, 1935 2,088,513 Gilbert July 27, 1937 2,313,374 Thomas Mar. 9, 1943 

